Leaving Panama City for Port St. Joe somehow felt like a bigger, more meaningful departure than leaving Pensacola for Destin, even though it was a shorter day hop and generally closer to shore. Departing Pensacola marked the first time the family went offshore together, while heading to Port St. Joe marked the reality of a longer crossing to the other side of Florida’s Big Bend.
The trip into Port St. Joe lacked the excitement of our approach to Panama City (Barrett and the Coast Guard chatting on the radio while I was on a work call) or Destin (crashing waves on shallow shoaling plus Spring Break 4.0 boating community under the bridge). In all honesty, it was unremarkable other than being the first place with water clear enough we could see the anchor on the seafloor below. It was our first anchorage where we were the only boat in sight overnight. Also, it was there that we decided to skip Carrabelle and cross straight to Tarpon Springs. The weather looked great, and going up to Carrabelle added 12 hours to the trip, so we consulted our weather expert and prepped for our first overnight.
When we started this adventure, we said we’d mostly travel in day hops and short sails. We knew a longer crossing from the Florida Panhandle to South Florida would be necessary, and in the early days, we even discussed how to pull in additional crew for the passage. Little did we know 1. how much time we’d lose while Agora was on the hard in Alabama, and 2. what we’re capable of as a team when it comes to tackling overnights. When we decided to take the perfect weather window and go to Tarpon Springs, it felt like a big deal.
I took the first 5ish hours from 8 p.m. – 1 a.m. while Barrett wrangled the kids for their first bedtime underway. They knew something big was going on, and I think they reflected our excited but nervous energy. I gathered my goodies for going on watch (hot tea, sour patch kids, resistance bands, and a romance novel… IYKYK), and settled in. I knew if I paused long enough to really think about it, I would feel anxious, scared, or intimidated. Because it was kind of my idea to just go ahead from Port St. Joe, and I knew it had to happen, I went with my gut and leaned into the unknown. And let me tell you, I have always loved the unknown.
The sun slowly set. The temperature cooled. There was no moonlight, but there was starlight. Otto was on Autopilot, so I was the eyes on the water, paying attention to what’s ahead and on the side of us – monitoring the charts and, most importantly, staying awake. In between looking out from the cockpit, I painted my nails, read my book, spotted bioluminescence, and observed a satellite launch and a lightning storm far away. We’d been discussing for days leading up to this what it might mean for our little crew and how to approach it, and also what to do if, at any point, something didn’t seem quite right. So when the steaming light started blinking in the middle of my shift, I knew I had to say something. It needs some more attention to see what is going on, but it was otherwise an uneventful shift.
When Barrett came back on deck again around 1 a.m., it felt like a big win – and I felt proud of myself in a new way. I brushed my teeth, snapped a sleepy selfie for posterity, and read a chapter to settle down for some required rest. I checked in at 4:45 that morning, and when Barrett – in all his morning person glory – told me I could sleep for another hour, I ran with it.
We traded watch shortly after sunrise, and soon I had an under-six morning person in the family join me for some early chatter. Even once everyone was awake and fed, we still had about 5 hours to get to our destination. We knew Clearwater or Tarpon Springs were in the general direction, but because we’d lost service offshore and couldn’t call ahead to marinas the evening before, we didn’t know exactly where we were going.
Turns out the Clearwater marina was closed due to lingering repairs from last year’s hurricanes, and one in Tarpon Springs was closed due to present power outages, we called the Anclote Village Marina. Barrett learned we wouldn’t be able to fit in the marina, but we could anchor three miles away and dinghy in for a fuel refill. So he emptied our onboard diesel cans to be ready upon arrival while we dodged crab traps and fought the current coming into the anchorage.
It was a spot with serious tide changes, and a clear and sudden shift from deep to shallow while dropping the anchor. I’m grateful for whatever intuition told me to stop and drop anchor when we did, because later that evening we realized just how dramatic a shift in tides. What was 13’ became 8’, and in the not-so-distant-distance, there were birds walking on land that used to be underwater.
We paused just long enough outside Tarpon Springs to get fuel and recharge for an overnight before pulling anchor and moving along again. It was yet another morning when we left the anchorage and kind of knew where we might end up for the night.
We thought we were headed toward St. Petersburg, but the best place for us to pause overnight would be a marina located three hours up into the bay, which meant another three out the next day for departure. After weather consultation and co-captain conversation, about two hours into the trip we decided to bypass St. Pete altogether and make another overnight trip to Marco Island in South Florida. Some storms showed up along the shore as the sun set, and some fishing boats popped up on the horizon, but it was a generally quiet trip. Overnights are quite fun when weather isn’t an issue, and technology is on your side.
Sailing Agora 
Leave a comment